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All of these sounds have been collated from a number of sites from all around the world. If anyone believes that these sounds should be removed (if it is about legal or moral reasons), then please email me.
THE SOUNDS OF A NORMAL ENGINE
NOT STARTING?
Click, click, click... A clicking sound is heard every time you try to start the car. This is because 1) there is not enough battery power (flat battery) or b) due to bad connections. The solenoid can be heard, but the starter is not spinning.
Whir, whir, whir... This whirring sound means that the cylinders are a) not getting enough fuel or b) not getting enough spark. If it is not either of these, it means that your timing is extremely poor! But don't worry, the flywheel is still spinning correctly.
ENGINE TROUBLE
Running on two cylinders and missing... Here, the engine misses, and power is lost. A tight valve or some sort of compression loss causes the miss at low-speeds. The miss usually disappears at high-speeds.
Muffler trouble... This sound is heard if the muffler is damaged. It comes from a) where the muffler is attached to the engine or b) from the actual muffler.
Miss at high RPM... High pitched sounds are heard at high RPM speeds after the engine rhythm is broken.
Cam noise. Loose clicks are heard, and may stop at high RPM speeds. Many would think it is a) a loose pulley or b) a loose valve. But it isn't. It is caused a) due to a loose cam gear or b) worn cam bearings.
Damaged pulley. Click, click, click...is heard. Make sure a) the generator and b) the crankshaft pulleys are in working order.
Loose valves. Quite simple really; adjust them!
Bent fan. To fix a) straighten the fan out or b) install a new one.
Worn generator bearing. The bearing is worn out.
Obstruction in fan. These noises disappear on Types 1 and 2 when you take the fan belt off, but be sure not to run without the belt for more than 20 to 25 seconds.
Fan is loose. In the higher ranges, the noise stops. To resolve, tighten the fan.
Heads are loose. In this case, you may as well rebuild the engine. The heads will be warped if they have been loose for a long time. Be careful- loose heads can easily crack your engine case!
Broken crankshaft. The same noise is head as in a loose flywheel, so make sure you check them both!
Loose flywheel. Like a broken crankshaft. Pull out the engine. You will probably have crankshaft and/or bearing damage.
Loose connecting rod. Rev and back off engine for a while. Hear for rattling of loose rod. The 'knocking' should flutter in and out.
Lower RPM miss. The miss should stop as the speed increases. Irregular miss could be caused by fuel delivery problems. Check for blockages.
Upside down pistons! Mistake must have occurred manually. Just fix 'em!
TUNING
Pinging. This occurs when you are running on low-octane gas. Retard your timing, even if set correctly. That will teach you a lesson about low-octane gas!
Engine running on/dieseling occurs when you shut off the key, but the engine keeps on going. This occurs when a) your engine is too hot, b) the automatic shut-off valve isn't working right, or c) you are using low-octane gas.
TRANSAXLE
The clutch is pushed down and let back up. In a normal engine, you should hear no difference.
Bad input shaft bearing. Push the clutch down and release. If this noise is heard, save your pennies! Transaxle repair needed.
Worn ring and pinion gear. This is heard in all gears!
Bearing worn throughout. This sound should be heard when you press and release the clutch. No difference SHOULD be heard. To fix, pull out engine, replace bearing, and reinstall engine. Simple?!
WHEELS AND AXLES
Wheel bearings. Find a quiet/unused road, get to 30MPH, and put in neutral. Swerve the car back and forth, and a rumble should be heard.
CV Joint sounds. Coast in neutral. The engine should be silent, and a duh duh duh sound is heard.
Worn brake pads cause metal against metal scraping. Owe!
Squealing brakes are caused by a) dirty break linings, b) glazed brake linings, or c) brand new brake linings. In c), the squealing should stop after some use.
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